![]() At this point the hem is flat on the surface, its right side down and wrong side up.Place the project right side up, hem down with the hem to the left.Next: turning the project over for stitching.First, turn in the hem according to the desired hem allowance depth (here: 1 inch) and.The stitch is pre-programmed to work with the foot to make stitching easier. You can use the Vari-Overlock Stitch (an overcasting stitch) on your BERNINA with Overlock foot #2/ 2A to finish the raw edge.Since the raw edge of the hem will not be encased it is important to neaten that raw edge and overcast it first.A blind hem lets you release that stiffness and lets the bottom of the curtain hang smoothly.įor examples of blind hem stitching and applications, see the list here on .įabric preparation: same as for the Simple Turned Hem It can then pucker up and hang unevenly, since the stitching stiffens the hem (which is normal), preventing it from flowing with the rest of the curtain. Curtain hems can pose a challenge if stitched through all layers such as with a simple turned hem. NOTE: It works best with fabrics with a thickness or loft.Ī good application for the blind hem, in addition to fine hemming on garments, is for curtain hems.The hem hangs beautifully thanks to Blindstitch foot #5 which automatically creates a slack in the stitching so the hem can hang completely flat by eliminating the tightness that a straight seam would introduce (e.g.It is an elegant finish with no stitching in sight.It yields a hem where no stitching is showing on the right side of the garment. In French, a blind hem is known as an ‘invisible’ hem. While a simple turned hem is expeditious and has many applications, it is not the best choice when a subtle finish is desired. The Blind Hem: a classic for subtle hems on lofty fabrics The result is a clean looking hem without bulk. Using Reverse Pattern foot #1D with Dual Feed will help feed both layers together for best results. However, if your machine has dual feed capability, do take advantage of it. Note: The companion video for this post used a 4 Series BERNINA machine which does not have Dual Feed as one of its features. Since the hem allowance is more prone to stretching (being near cut edges) the feed dog will keep it in check and feed it more evenly with the project. TIP: Whenever possible, stitch the hem with the hem allowance ‘down’ and against the feed dog. Next: Press the hem (refer to the guidelines above).After finishing the raw edge, turn in the hem according to the desired finished hem allowance (here: 1 inch).An overlocker makes this step faster, easier and even neater.You can use the Vari-Overlock (overcasting) stitch on your BERNINA with Overlock foot #2/ 2A to finish the raw edge.Since the raw edge of the hem will not be encased, it is important to neaten that raw edge and overcast it first.Linings of various types for garments, curtains, etc. This type of hem is perfect for applications where bulk is to be avoided. Together, these 3 techniques cover the bulk of hemming scenarios. With these guidelines in mind, let’s explore three different ways to hem. A telltale sign that you need a larger needle is when you start seeing skipped stitches on the hem when your needle worked just fine to sew the project together. In such cases you may have to use a larger needle. Note that when hemming you are often stitching through more than the typical two layers of fabric (e.g.I repeat as I go along (lift / press-steam / press dry).I then keep the dry iron in place for several seconds to set the crease of the hem.This will help ‘collapse’ the hem and flatten it. While pressing I use a small puff of steam (about 1/3 push on the steam puff button on my iron) to relax the fibers.Never iron (aka drag the iron over) the hem! It will only stretch the hem allowance and make it difficult to get an even hem.Use a pressing motion: press / lift and move over / press.I like to press the hem with a dry iron:.Always press the hem first before manipulating it further or stitching it.Double-turned hem: typical on jeans and useful for heavy applications like the top of tote bagsīefore we start hemming…here are some general guidelines, regardless of the style of hem:.Blind hem: great for garments and for curtains.Basic simple turned hem: perfect for lightweight applications where bulk is undesirable.In this article we will review 3 basic hem styles (techniques). ![]() ![]() As always, it helps ensure perfect results to have the right tools and notions in place. It’s a step I look forward to as there is nothing more satisfying than taking a seam that yields that beautifully finished edge. Hemming is often the last stage of a project. ![]()
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